Despite being close to fashion and immersed in a creative spirit for a few years, I am still charmed by the magical and beauty of the Fashion Weeks when sparkles of luxury are spread all over the cities. I had the chance to see Leonard’s who at the Grand Palais in Paris three years ago ; I also worked in the showroom for Acne Studios during the week before the show. But this year I had the incredible opportunity as a photographer and to access to London Fashion Week more from inside. I saw the raw world in backstage, I saw in models’ eyes their fatigue and sometimes even the fear, without saying a word, aware that they are Dozen of unknown hands turn around their faces and their bodies, which transform these girls into anything than who they are. Models are turned into a women- object, losing any kind of intimacy, any control of themselves. I quite puzzled to faced so crudely these realities to shine a couple of minutes on the stage.
However, it was an incredible experience as a photographer. I was quite scared to be in the middle of the pit, surrounded by all these competitive and massive professional photographers. I was so surprised by the calm and friendly atmosphere in the room while waiting for the shows. They were all very chatty and nice with me, giving me some advice and great positions to take photographs. Even if I was exhausted to be concentrated while shooting – I was trying to think and apply all indications I
got – it was such a wonderful experience where I learnt and shoot a lot. Go for select, retouch and edit now…
-Always be polite and respectful of other photographers
-Be chatty and socialist with them
-Set up your camera (never come with a Nikon) before the show :
Aperture (f1.2 to f.8)
SS above 1/320
ISO (100 to 1600)
-Optimal lens is 70-200mm but a 24-70mm should be perfectly fine
-Wait for models being half of the stage before starting to shoot
-Wait for the leg on my side cross in front of the others to stay elegant
-Press the shutter on the down beat
-Take a full length / 3/4 and close up (don’t forget the back, details, accessories even if it’s quite hard to see all of that while shooting, there is so much going on so quickly !!)
-Models usually look down before turning and close their eyes when they turn (relax moment)
It is quite easy to have access at LFW but it is another story for Paris or Milano where there is nothing to compare with level of shows.
Romantic • Melancholy • Dreamy • Painterly • Abstract • Blur • Mystery
Albert Watson, one of the most influential photographer of the twentieth century, along Richard Avedon and Irving Penn.
Listen to to Fred Astaire’s glamorous effortlessness, while reading this article.
Georges Hurrell, the glamour photographer or Hollywood in 1930s and 1940s worked for a time at MGM studios and fashion magazines and advertisements.A beautiful reading on his portraits (with a laugh during the first meeting between Hurrell and Garbo, p.59)
Clarence Sinclair Bull, known as Garbo’s personal photographe, worked for movie studios during the Hollywood Golden Age, . Bull was an expert in the technical aspects of photography, including lighting, retouching, and printing.
They both used a very high number of incandescent lights (boom lights) for every shape of face. Look reflections in the eyes.
Multiple lights create a multidirectional light and soft shadows.
The softer the light is, the more flattering the picture is.
The exhibition presents hairdresser Sam McKnight’s works in collaboration with photographers, designers, models and celebrities (Nick Knight, Patrick Demarchelier, Craig McDean… Karl Lagerfeld, Vogue… Kate Moss, Tilda Swinton, Anja Rubik, Marion Cotillard… Princess Diana, Lady Gaga…). It was inspiring and resourceful on fashion portraiture and studio lighting (not really on hair itself), as a creative visual communication. His interview in his garden raises questions on future of images and digital images, and on profusion of them nowadays.
In Conversation with the French German photographer Cathleen Naundorf, at Victoria and Albert Museum (04 November 2016)
A conversation about TRAVEL (‘Go out. I’m young, I need to go out.’), FREEDOM, SOCIAL relationships and FASHION. This women is a gift of joy and happiness.
Cathleen studied painting (drawing) and photography. She started in photo reportage and created books for publishers. Fascinated by ethnic cultures and , she traveled in Mongolia, Amazonia, Sibiria and Tibet. She felt a desire to slow down her nomad life and she settled down in Paris. Her friend Horst introduced Cathleen in the ‘fashion tribe’ and she photographed the backstage of fashion shows and the ‘petites-mains’ working in ‘Haute couture ateliers’.
She developed her outstanding textural photographic signature using a large format camera and polaroid, that interested couturiers. She got the access to couturiers’ archives (Dior, Chanel, GJohn Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Valentino, Elie Saab…) and developed a theatrical series of photographs in the beautifulest places (Grand Palais, Versailles, Valentino castle…). She highlighted the importance of relationship between the dress and the location.
A personal ending happened…
Morning coffee, in conversation with the fashion designer David Sims
William Klein is an American photographer, painter and film maker (1928-) based in Paris, sometimes called the ‘bad boy’.He rejected the documentary objectivity (the rule at that time) and adopted an approach that erased any distance between model and photographer. He preferred to dive in the crowd and photograph very close to his subject (so much that the image could be very blurry and grainy, with violent contrasts, complex compositions, out of frame, distorsions.He is a multi-facetted portraitist and created famous cities books in New York, Rome, Paris, Tokyo and Moscow. He disrupted fashion photography (influencing Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, David Bailey…). Models don’t pose anymore but they are photographed in the street, in movement.